Despite the fact that nowadays the trend is towards ecology and ethics, the majority of the world’s designers still cannot refuse to use leather and fur in their collections. But there are designers who from the very beginning of their creative career in the fashion industry have emphasized an ethical attitude to fashion. Our heroes are designers from Russia, who care how and from what to create: they do not use fur and leather to create clothes and accessories, but adhere to vegetarianism and a healthy lifestyle.
Masha Lamzina – Masha Lamzina
Masha Lamzina is a designer for the Masha Lamzina brand and a textile artist. In his works Masha Lamzina mixes elements of traditional cults and deep connection with nature, modern art, fashion, collage, various techniques of fabric manipulation. She believes that the clothes she creates help people to show their individuality, get closer to themselves, break stereotypes and go beyond the usual. 4 years ago, Masha created her own brand, which produces complex creative collections and small prints in a unique chlorine bleaching technique.
Tim Weaver, ARHOMUS.
Tim Wither is a fashion designer, producer & marathon runner. As a child he revealed the nature of love for beautiful things and style. Even in the army, where everyone dressed the same way, Tim modernized his uniform. After the army, he lived in the North, where he learned how to sew himself and earned a strong reputation as an excellent designer and image maker. Thanks to the program director of Avrora Fashion Week
in St. Petersburg, Tim presented his collection within the framework of Milan Fashion Week and was on the list of the “top 10 best Russian designers”. At the moment Tim is engaged in two of his projects, including “ARHOMUS” – a brand with a mission to broadcast the internal worldview through the external one.
Yulia Osharova – Urban Mudra & Jamshop
Yulia Osharova is the creator of Urban Mudra brand, designer of her own clothing line, street-feshion blogger, organizer of filming and stylist. In his works, he promotes street style, freedom of expression, rap and hip-hop of cultures from the old school, stunningly mixing them with Indian traditions, self-knowledge and yoga. Her images feature elongated t-shirts and bindy, wide pants and elegant Indian jewellery. A year ago, she decided to create her own clothing line that fully reflects the inner state of freedom and incredible sense of style.
Asya Solovyova is a designer and founder of the AsyaSolov’eva brand, costume designer. She experiments with colour and form, maintains an artistic look at fashion, strives for individuality of images and avoids replication of models. Asya was one of the first designers in Russia to pay attention to the problems of overabundance of things, and created an eco-collection of deconstructed and aged things that were in use, called Cyclicism, and held shows in Moscow and Harbin (China). In 2017, the brand was successfully performed at a show in Paris as part of the Fil Rouge festival program. As a costume designer, she creates images for famous theatrical productions, films and even the Olympic Games!
What does ethical fashion mean to you?
Masha: It’s not about the skin and fur of animals, birds’ feathers. It’s a consciousness not only on the part of designers, but above all on the part of consumers: what shops to go to, what to buy, what to throw away, whether to redo, or to recycle. I really don’t like to throw away worn-out things, so I try to make a choice in favor of things of higher quality, which even in their old form look great. That’s why when creating things for my brand, I focus not only on the idea, but also on the level of its implementation, I work only with high-quality natural fabrics, creating clothes that will be nice to hold in your hands and in ten or twenty years, which ages beautifully.
Julia: It’s “Achimsa” (translated from Sanskrit as “non-violence” – editor’s note)! In today’s world, there is so much technology that people can do without, for example, natural fur and other things that hurt our smaller brothers. I am very pleased that more and more influential brands are abandoning fur or, for example, Adidas is very pleased to have released sneakers
from recycled plastic.
Tim: We – ARHOMUS – do not follow the temporary trends. We are for eternity.
Our brand is formed on the principle of “RUPAM AISHVARAM”, which means “Universal construction of the Universe”. Our essence is based on harmonious synthesis of Absolute Truth with the person.
Asya: For me it is consciousness. I answer myself the questions – what am I doing? What am I doing it for? Who am I doing it for? For me it is not to create things – one-day things, but to make quality clothes, which will be satisfied with my client. I also run the cyclicism recycling project: I collect old denim clothes and make new fabrics and designer clothes out of them.
Why did you decide to do fashion design?
Masha: I’ve been making clothes for myself since childhood: knitting, embroidering, remodeling, dyeing T-shirts. Handmade work has always been a certain way of meditating for me, and I was happy to do it for many years. Fashion design was the first time I got carried away when I realized that avant-garde fashion had no limits, that it was possible to play with all the existing rules, that fashion was conditional, and that it was possible to create your own rules of the game, doing what you wanted, without adjusting to anyone or anything.
Julia: I love dresses and clothes very much, I’ve been talking since high school: “Your mother probably helps you to dress. In 2011, I brought glasses for my grandmother’s money, and then I added some accessories and finally some clothes. I’ll tell you right away: I never drove fakes. One day in St. Petersburg I met the guys who had their own brand and dreamed of launching a women’s collection for them. I started drawing sketches, but it went into a long drawer. In 2017, we shot ᴜʀʙᴀɴ ᴅᴇᴠɪ for our @jamshoprus, then we had T-shirts, bombers, hoodies, bags. I’m crazy excited about the whole process, from buying to creating and selling. Seeing happy people is the best thing that ever happened to me.
Tim: In general, it’s a love of style, not fashion. Fashion is a fleeting concept, and style is the truth / essence of the individual. Now it is a hypertrophied era. In the Vedas it is called “Kali-Yuga” (“dark age” – editor’s note). Therefore, the tastes of society, and therefore fashion, are progressing towards degradation, where women are undressed. Now I have passed a law for myself that there must be brands that will somehow (through manifestos/performances for a wide audience) fight against it! Challenge this huge audience. For this mission, the Elite Spiritual Warrior – ARHOMUS – was created on the model of the legendary Japanese samurai warrior. He will broadcast the principles that are the norm for a man, without infringing on his civil rights. Clothes first of all speak about the status and belonging of a person to a certain society, that’s why #arhomusclan – a community of self-conscious people, the world of like-minded people and all of them should be vegetarians – was formed accordingly.
Asya: That was my dream! I’ve always been fascinated by the stage and podium, inspired by beauty, and I realized that I want to and can create it.
What inspires you?
Masha: I am inspired by old fabrics, traditional manipulations with textiles, textiles in everyday life: old blankets, mattresses, worn carpets, ropes on which to dry clothes. Everything simple, peasant, close to the ground and nature resonates with what I do. I am inspired by the art-interpretation of national costumes from all over the world, I like masks very much. I’m close to the idea that a costume should express the identity of a person; I love people who dress differently than everyone else, and I don’t understand the idea of impersonality and fusion with the crowd. Everyone has their own taste, unique appearance, cultural luggage, interests, hobbies and I like it when it is expressed in clothes, when a person is not afraid of judgment and quietly manifests itself.
Julia: People, music! Music – number one: I’m always wearing headphones, even in the shop for bread, plunging into the tracks, drawing images, pictures, imagine what would be the clip – but I dream to take off, stylize someone clip.
Tim: Vedic culture, ancient treatises, sports (I am a marathon runner; I ran the 30th International Marathon “White Nights” 42 km in St. Petersburg in 3 hours and 56 minutes), travels (I myself am from the Caucasus and had time to travel halfway around the world) and my wife Polina (by the way, she is also a vegetarian).
Asya: I am inspired by music, nature, travel, communication with people.
What fashion designers are your role models and role models?
Masha: I am inspired by designers whose work can be said to be a mixture of fashion and art. The designers who inspired me on this journey, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, did not just create clothes and style, they did entire art shows that are forever part of fashion history. I am inspired by professionals who, despite the various circumstances, remain true to themselves and the aesthetics. Now I am very close to Craig Green and Raph Simons: what they do is real art.
Julia: It’s more of a street fashion blogger in insta. I’m glad to keep an eye on them. Aleali, for example. She is great.
Tim: There are no such people. There used to be John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
Asya: I am close to conceptual designers, Hussein Chalayan, Martin Margella, for example. Their fashion as an art, they are ahead of time. Vivienne Westwood is inspired by her: she is relevant and modern, her energy is impressive, her designer makes crazy collections and her eco-friends. She is also a vegetarian.
Why did you become a vegetarian?
Masha: It was the first time I learned about vegetarians at the age of 12 that I was a vegetarian and immediately realized that I was a vegetarian and that I fully shared the philosophy of non-violence. My parents, of course, were against it, and convinced me that they could not provide me with a complete vegetarian diet in a small village at the end of the 90s, the time was not easy. When I started to live separately, I immediately refused to eat meat, then, gradually, after trips to India, experiments with Orthodox fasting, raw food, veganism, I felt that the refusal to eat animals is natural for me and my body. And after many years of yoga classes, where one of the pits (rules) is Achimsa (not causing harm to living beings), the refusal to eat flesh of living beings for me is no longer even a choice, but nature. I have never agitated for anyone to become a vegetarian, but all my loved ones fully share this view of life and nutrition, and there can be no two opinions on this issue for us.
Julia: If I had been told about this 6 years ago, I would not have believed it. I thought vegetarians were “the one” (crazy – editor’s note). I just moved to another city, got to the vegetarians, decided to try – and it was my best decision. You can eat well and no one suffers for that.
Tim: Karmic circumstances. He survived a clinical death 3 years ago. Since then he has given up all bad habits and stopped eating meat, fish, eggs, onions and garlic.
Asya: It was hard to eat meat. And then I got carried away with yoga, and everything became more conscious. Now I work a lot, I need a lot of energy, so I try to eat fresh vegetables and freshly cooked food. I take the time to meditate and sleep.
How does your lifestyle affect your work?
Masha: My way of life helps me to work very much at the same time, because I have the strength and energy to do everything, and not to dwell on my work, not to become a workaholic who burns at work and thinks only about it. I find a balance in my daily yoga classes on the mat, which compensate for hours of marathons at the sewing machine or computer. I try to lead a balanced and healthy lifestyle, without kinks and fanaticism, looking for balance in everything: sometimes I can afford bad ice cream, and sometimes I arrange days of aimless rest, watching my favorite movies or reading books, right in the middle of the working week. If work is both a creative and a matter of life, one must learn to find a balance so that the flow does not run out.
Julia: First of all, it is the quality of things (so that in the age of consumption they serve much longer). Secondly, we do not use plastic bags for packing orders. And we also made shopping bags for eco-friendly shopping.
Tim: I’ll explain by the example of a DNA brand. ARHOMUS is a synthesis of Absolute Truth with Man: shape, color and mood according to every archetype, everyone and everyone. Practicality, functionality, silhouette and aesthetics. Transformation of the external world through internal. The basis of DNA is the mood of the universal form, which has no analogues in the world, because a person has limited opportunities in this form of life. We are for self-consciousness, cognition of our nature and the nature of absolute forms, which lead to an infinite source of inspiration. Just as a man wears new clothes when taking off old ones, so the soul enters new material bodies, leaving old and useless ones. ARHOMUS clothes are not born and do not die. It is not born, eternal, always existing, immortal and original form, which will give you the opportunity to be in the center of attention.
Asya: In addition to vegetarianism, I am close to the theme of ecology – I sort the garbage at home, and that’s what prompted me to do a project to recycle Denim. I’m trying to minimize textile waste and I’m ready to share my skills.
I do not use leather and fur in my work.